“If we would be healthy and happy – we will not need the money”, – this is the credo of the most part of locals I’ve heard at the Synevyr valley. They look healthy and happy, but apparently that it is not enough, and then everyone in business.
These people are living in a very difficult medium: unpredictable weather conditions, the rocky ground, they are need to protect themselves from wild animals and connection with a big land is broken roads, which floods washing away every spring. They have increased in recent years due to deforestation, and new plantings are not able to retain water in the soil. And all of that is without any support from the government.
The main field of local people is the household. They are deal with all at once. Hutsuls (name of people who lives in Carpathians) are herding cows, goats, sheep and makes delicious dairy products. Also they are raise pigs and poultry for a meat. Crops are difficult to grow there, so locals limited with fruit trees and grapes (they make terrific house wine). Everything else gives a forest: a fish from the local mountain rivers (mainly trout). As well there gather mushrooms, berries and healthy herbs. But the main income for these people is the tourism.
Looking at the way they organize it, inadvertently begin to compare with the Crimea. These people are in the same boat, they have all the same resources and live through tourism, with one big exception: in Carpathians they do not have the sea. But the approach and the attitude are different. If in the Crimea, what people earned, often they spent on alcohol and the next year guests are welcomed in the squalid homes, as it was in previous year (probably worse). There (on west), all incomes go into business, in these homes a much more comfortable to live and it is clear that the owners refers to their work with love and with respect to the customers money. All what they do – they make conscientiously. Crimeans like to complain about their lives and are always looking for a whipping boy in their troubles, in western Ukraine – all of them is working and believe that their life could have been worse.
We went to the mountains to escape from the news flow, away from the topic of war. We are too deeply immersed in the crisis and needed a recharge. We agreed on the complete information silence: no Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and especially the news media.
But it did not work too much. In all kolybas (ethnic restaurants) at neighboring tables people are discussing “East”. Each family has someone on the front lines. There are many of local men part time work as touristic drivers and passed many stories, like every week somewhere in close area whole village burying neighbors, who was killed in the war. And someone’s brother is back on board, or without legs etc. Even at a distance of thousand of miles, the war affects everyone.
We also met a lot of refugees from the East, which local people sheltered at their homes, restrict themselves and their families in excess piece of bread. Of course, I’m exaggerating, but these people are not rich, and it’s a great feat to settle and feed another family. Most of the refugees, unfortunately do not appreciate it. They are don’t want to work, all of them are not satisfied, they do not like the living conditions and constantly looking for something to complain about, and their benefactors are ungrateful… Literally they are going to be dependents, without giving anything in return. Although, they are adult people, have arms, legs, and good health.
Lake Synevyr has a very deep history. It was formed about ten thousand years ago, after a powerful earthquake. Despite of its small area, some places reach a depth of 25 meters. In the crystal clear lake is three species of trout. Locals refer to the nature reserve with the respect and love. As soon as we sit down on the rocks to enjoy the clean air and the incredible beauty of the scenery as we surrounded the group of twenty people, with clearly Donbas accent (for Ukrainians it is easy to recognize their specific pronounce). As I watched as five of them undressed began to swim in the lake (it is prohibited by the law and even locals not break this rule), on my left side someone dropped an empty plastic bottle. I politely (as I could keep my anger) asked to clean up debris, a 50 years old woman, was able to squeeze out her shy “oh” and took the bottle. I will not even tell how much they used swear words near of their children. I was always felt sorry for these people and trying to justify internally, I have no bias toward them, but their behavior leaves no chance… Of course, this oik manner you could find in all parts of Ukraine, but frankly, this concentration of the discourtesy I have not met a long time.
Meanwhile, the weather conditions was deteriorated rapidly and we decided to leave. In general, at Synevyrska valley we spent no more than a diem, but the experience was enough to make definite conclusions. At night we were in Lviv. I was in these incredibly beautiful ancient city innumerable times. But this trip seemed to me special. Lviv reminds me Vienna, but it is not without something of itself, this city have a face. Lviv was crowded by tourists, which created traffic jams on streets.
Despite usual rhythm of the city and relaxed atmosphere that reigns in the endless restaurants and cafes, a sense of the war presence did not pass Lviv.
In one of the old churches votarists has collect donations for the needs of the Ukrainian army, also there is a memorial plaque with photos and names of the war victims. Constantly being service for the life of the soldiers and the salvation of souls of the dead on the war. Also group of sculptors made tens of small Putin figures with the detonator inside of its head, for 3 euros every passer-by could explode it. All the money went for help to wounded soldiers in the area of the anti-terrorist operation in Donbass.
On the streets we met a lot of people who have spoken on the Donbas russian. I saw one interesting refugee family: parents and three children were dressed in national costumes and literally all of them was hang round with different Ukrainian symbols: bracelets, pendants, pins, bags, strips, badges etc. It looked a little weird, but cute. It was evident that they are fell greedily on the things that they did not have for many years. Also on the streets of Lviv have appeared vagrants, who with the Donbass pronunciation have trying to cadge on Ukrainian language. That sounded funny enough. It is inoffensive surface, but locals told us other stories. With the appearance of refugees from East, in Lviv has increased the crime situation. According to the stories of Lviv residents there were occasions when the newcomers were outraged why people in Lviv live better: “You live as in Europe, it is not fair, we should to take it all away.” Of course, it’s not quite seriously, and this peculiar sense of humor. But this is not normal. And there in the same way as in Carpathians, they do not want to work. They want to live on subsidies, at the expense of others.
Looking at all these situations, I still can’t understand why they are waiting until goods fall down from the sky? They are really thought that someone gives it in the end. I was always sure that Donbas region is the land of working people, who spend their lives in factories and mines. In fact it turned out that they are just lazy consumers. But at the same time, it provides an answer to the question why their region always was so beggar. I hope that after they are see a better life, they will conclude and realize “how to do it”, and not become even more hate us out of jealousy and the inability to change something in their lives. In any case, the process of social and cultural exchange is up and running. As a result, it will benefit both the East and the West of Ukraine. The next generation of Ukrainians will be a fundamentally new. How exactly, time will tell. Also I want to point, that between refugees from the East a lot of wonderful people, some of them I know in person, I met them in Kiev and I don’t want to form a such of opinion about eastern people as I described allow in my report, but I have set out what I saw with my own eyes.
This trip was a good chance to see two poles of Ukraine at the same time. Ukraine was always mentally separated on two worlds. Perhaps this is the moment in history when the East and West will look into each other’s eyes and accept, that we are one nation, one country and together we can build it in a better way.
simplediaries 